5 Things You Need for Carnaval

If you read my latest newsletter update (sign up here), you know that I just got back from Carnaval in the interior of Panama with new friends I met during my travels.  I was in Ocú, a town with no stoplights in the Herrera province. Ocú one of the places that still maintains the Panamanian traditions and has resisted being overtaken by corporate sponsorship (although you could see some presence).  It was such an amazing experience not only to participate and learn about the traditions but also to be welcomed into a group of close family and friends.  I have so much to share with all of you about Carnaval, which has been the highlight of my journey through Central America, so I will break this into a series of posts.  There are many photos and even video to come.  First, here are the 5 things you need to have a great Carnaval experience.

#1:  Appropriate Clothing & Footwear

There are three factors that impact your clothing decision:

1. Strong sun
2. Huge crowds
3. Lots of water

The sun is an obvious one.  Wear a hat and lots of waterproof sunscreen.  And of course it’s hot, so you want lightweight shorts and t-shirt/ tank top.

Huge crowds is another obvious one, and the group I was with was fully prepared for this.  The crew was a group of both Panamanians and people from the States and the UK.  Some of the group met during their MBA program in Panama.  I went to Ocú with Norma, Carlos, and Yvonne.  The three of us stayed with Carlos’s mother, father, and brother in the family home originally owned by the grandmother.  Everyday we met up with a group of friends who rented another house.  The group has grown over the years as more friends have been invited and enjoy themselves so much that they come back the next year.  In total there were about 11 people in the group.  There were 500+ people participating in our Carnaval party and probably a few thousand in Ocú overall.  So how do you find your group in a crowd? You make matching t-shirts, so you can easily spot the colors in the crowd. It also helps to have a humorous phrase on the back of course.

The third factor and one of the main aspects of Carnaval is the culecos.  This is basically a tanker truck spraying water on the crowd.  This tradition has developed primarily because of the heat, and the people LOVE it.  They scream and wave their hands and chant “Agua!” I have to admit that I did not enjoy this aspect so much.  I do not like getting sprayed in the face with a high-pressure hose, and I don’t like walking around in wet clothing all day (especially cotton).  But there is no way to stay dry.  If you are participating in the festivities, you will get sprayed by the truck.  Even if you manage to avoid the culecos, you will be sprayed by the many children carrying around water guns.  Some people even just walk around with a cooler or bucket of water and will dump a cup of water on you as you walk by.

Given these factors, what should you wear? Wear a bathing suit with something lightweight and made of quick-drying material over it.  Wear water shoes instead of basic flip-flops or sandals.  It gets really slippery and a little muddy, and there are large crowds that might step on your feet.  My Keen’s would have been perfect (had I thought to bring them with me).

#2:  Drink Carrier

Another must-have for Carnaval is an appropriate drink carrier.  The alcohol was included in the Carnaval festivities in Ocú. I paid $20 for a wristband that was good for all four days and nights of the celebration.  A truck full of liquor, mixers, and ice followed around our roving party the whole day from 10am until about 4pm.  But it is very important to have the right drink carrier.  It should meet the following criteria:

• It must have a lid. If not, you will have lots of water from the culecos (and it is from the river, not potable) in your drink.  And let’s face it.  You’ll start spilling as you get more intoxicated.
• It must have a strap. You will be carrying it around for about 6 hours, so you need to be able to hang it around your neck or over your shoulder.  Otherwise, you are sure to lose it.
• It must be grande. Although the lines aren’t that bad at the drink truck, who wants to be waiting in line when you could be dancing and singing and getting sprayed with water?

#3:  Ziploc Bags

Because of the culecos, you will need to put your money, ID/ passport copy, and anything electronic in a plastic bag.  A lot of people buy those small hard plastic containers that hang around your neck.  That may even be a better option if you plan to drink a lot and do not want to worry about losing your stuff

#4:  Good Attitude

One of the things I was really impressed by in Ocú was the attitude of the people celebrating.  I typically do not like large crowds where there is lots of drinking because it is usually an unsafe environment.  Carnaval in Ocú was not like that at all.  Of course there was a strong presence from the police as well as private security, but it was the attitude of the people participating that made it a safe environment.  Nobody was there to cause trouble. They just wanted to have a good time and participate in the traditions.  Don’t get me wrong.  There was a lot of drinking and a lot of really drunk people (a few I saw sleeping on benches the next morning), but those people were not there to cause any trouble.

During a non-stop multi-day party, you need to have a good attitude and not get bothered by the small things.  For example, the town of Ocú actually shut off the running water from 7am until late into the evening.  I assume this is because they knew they would run out of water due to the large crowds that descended on the town, so they were being proactive.  Luckily, the home I was staying at had a water reserve, and the family would fill up buckets of water and put them in the showers and next to the toilets and sinks.  My “bucket showers” worked just as good as running water.

#5:  Great People

I think this is the most important thing you need for a great Carnaval.  I was with locals who were knowledgeable about the traditions and actually care about the traditions.  They wanted to share their country’s traditions with me.  Understanding what I was witnessing made it all the more enjoyable to participate.

Carnaval is also about having a good time with the people you care about.  Good conversations.  Lots of laughs.  Lots of fun.

I am so lucky

Coming soon….

Part 2 of my Carnaval experience where I will explain more about what transpires during the 4-day celebration, including photos and videos.