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Recoleta vs Chacarita – The Winner Is…

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Chacarita!

You are probably wondering what I am talking about.  Cemeteries of course!  You may find this a little weird, but I always check out cemeteries when I am traveling.  I have found they are quite different from country to country.  They are quiet, serene places where you can get away from the crowds and the big city noise.  I like to practice my photography in cemeteries.  I’m less likely to have my camera stolen than on the street or in the park.  And it’s challenging to look for the intricate design details that can make beautiful photos.

Why go to Recoleta?

First, I will start with the loser.  Recoleta cemetery is on everyone’s must-do list when visiting Buenos Aires.  You will find the graves of some of the most powerful and rich figures in Argentine history, including Eva Perón.  The cemetery contains elaborate mausoleums in a variety of architectural styles, many adorned with intricate statues.  Although Recoleta is small, it is easy to get lost as you wander through the sidewalks lined with the towering mausoleums.

Photo of mausoleums in Recoleta

Photo of statue in black & white

The other notable thing about Recoleta are the cats that live there.  There is at least one weird cat lady that sets out food for them.  When I visited in 2009, I distinctly remember her getting pissy about me taking a photo of the cats eating.  Apparently, she expected a tip for providing this service for the tourists.

Photo of old casket in Recoleta

So if you like hordes of tourists lining up to see Eva Perón’s grave and cats, go to Recoleta.

Why go to Chacarita?

First, let me tell you how I found the Chacarita cemetery.  When I arrive in a new city, I spend the first few days walking around my neighborhood getting to know the layout, the streets, and looking for interesting restaurants, galleries, and photo ops.  After a couple of days I had pretty much covered Palermo and was looking to explore the neighboring barrios.  I saw this huge cemetery on the map.  Surely, it couldn’t be that big.  Only one way to find out.

Photo of tree-lined path in Chacarita

I walked about 45 minutes and was pleasantly surprised to discover what is the largest cemetery in Argentina.  The style is similar to Recoleta with the mausoleums and statues, but it’s bigger and there are not 20 people trying to take a photo of one person’s grave.  It is much less claustrophobic, and there is a gorgeous tree-lined path in the middle.

Photo of mausoleums in black and white

Photo of large mausoleum

Photo of row of mausoleums

Photos of statue holding rose

If you walk past the section of mausoleums, you will see traditional graves extending in the distance.  There is an area in this section reserved for famous members of the Argentine artistic community, including writers, composers and actors.

Photo of mausoleum between the trees

I know everyone wants to see Recoleta.  It’s nice.  I enjoyed it.  But if you have the time, consider a trip to Chacarita.  It is very impressive.

Comments

  1. I like checking out the cemetaries as well. Eg., in Central America, it seems like all the graves are above ground. Some really nice photography, especially the b&w with the cobwebs hanging off the statue.

  6. Gorgeous photos. I adore cemeteries. There’s something about the peacefulness and all the little critters running about. Whenever I travel, I stop in one to have a little walk.

  9. interesting idea for a post, a cemetry-off!
    love the photos.
    there is definitely something intriguing about cemeteries and the way they change over the world. we found some in central america amazingly colourful. a stark difference to the greyness we usually see.
    jamie – cloud people adventures recently posted..Cloud People Update

  14. Wow, the details on everything is incredible. I’m also one for checking out cemeteries. I can’t help myself – I find it so peaceful and relaxing to walk through a cemetery. Love your photos.

  15. I WENT TO BOTH OF THESE ALSO AND I AGREE THAT CHACARITA IS BETTER IN MANY RESPECTS, I ESPECIALLY LIKED VISITING THE TOMB OF CARLOS GARDEL, ARGENTINA’S MOST FAMOUS TANGO SINGER… I DID LIKE RECOLETA TOO THOUGH, ESPECIALLY CUZ I LOVE CATS!..LOL.. THAT ANNOYING LADY WASN’T THERE 😛
    LORENA : TRAVEL DESIGNERY recently posted..A Moroccan Day Trip – Tangier

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  23. Not all of the graves are mausoleums. If you really want to see where the poor are buried, check out Chacarita. The wooden crosses bent over graves of individuals forgotten. It’s overwhelming. The children and babies lost in the last year was stunning alone. Tombs upon tombs stacked in majestic halls, I have never seen anything like it. Yes, it’s beautiful and touristic like Recoleta, but it also smacks you in the face with awareness of the poverty, which Recoleta does not (the poverty in Bs As is alarming – in 2012 50% of the population in Bs As was under the poverty line).

    This was my second three-week stint in Argentina and while I get a peaceful, sound feeling in Recoleta, I had the nagging wonder: but what happens to poor people? Where do they go? My answer: Chacarita (if they’re lucky).

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