As you know, one-third of my time in Bariloche was actually spent on a border run to Chile. I was not thrilled to leave my hostel at 815am, walk 2.5 km to the bus station, and return to my hostel at 1015pm.
However, one very memorable thing happened during this day trip to Chile.
I saw how devastating the ash problem still is.
I have experienced ashes in Buenos Aires, Puerto Madryn, and El Bolson. It was an “ashy day” (yes, that is new weather terminology) when the bus left Bariloche.
This was no different than usual.
When we stopped at the Argentina exit station, I stood outside waiting for the others to get their exit stamps.
Is it snowing?
No, these were ashes thick enough to look like snowflakes. I took a photo.
I had to wipe off the screen of my camera to remove the layer of ashes that accumulated in seconds. I noticed a woman who had put a mask over her young daughter’s mouth and nose.
This was not new to anyone.
We got on the bus to drive several more kilometers winding through the mountains to reach the Chilean entry station.
The landscape was now different.
There were mounds of ashes several meters high.
It looked as if a desert had been dropped on top of a forest.
I was shocked.
I couldn’t imagine living in a place that has to deal with this problem.
There is no way to control it.
But just past the Chilean entry point, the ashes were gone.
On the way back to Argentina, we saw the source of the problem.
Volcan Puyehue
It was up to no good.
Matthew Cheyne says
When that volcano originally erupted about a year or so ago, the ash didn’t just go east to Argentina. It went way way east over the Indian Ocean to Australia and caused absolute havoc with our airspace being shut down over the most populated areas of the country and therefore no planes flying, no air freight being delivered and no airports open for tourists to fly in and out.
The flight path between Melbourne and Sydney is the fourth busiest in the entire world with a plane leaving either Melbourne or Sydney bound for the other city something like every five minutes or so during the day. And being a big big country with a small population, air travel (at least until we get a high speed rail network up running in the next decade or two) is absolutely critical.
I must admit though I have seen pictures of ash before from bushfires but nothing like the mountains being covered with ash as though it is snow as in the pictures you’ve got here. I hope it didn’t get into your lungs otherwise you’d be coughing like crazy.
The Travel Chica says
Oh, yes, I am well aware of the impacts on that side of the world. A friend of mine who was living in BA and went home for a visit got stuck in Australia for a while.
Didn’t realize that flight path was quite so busy though.
Luckily, we were not waiting outside the bus for too long at the border crossing. Definitely not something I want to breathe.
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Eugenie says
Wow, I think you can’t imagine how big the impact is until you see it. I’d never think there be meters of ashes. What’s the long term impact of this, did you hear anything about it? Does it just disappear into the ground?
The Travel Chica says
I’m not really sure of the long-term impacts on the environment. It doesn’t seem to disappear into the ground at all.
I remember that people were very concerned about people breathing it in when the volcano first erupted, but in Bariloche, I never saw anyone wearing a dust mask on the ashy days.
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Steve says
Wow, it almost looks like you’re visiting Canada in those shots with all the ash doubling as snow. I would think it would play havoc with cars engines having that much ash on the roads. Hope you don’t have to get too much closer to it on your planned route.
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The Travel Chica says
I was not expecting it to be this bad. Really sad to see the effects it is continuing to have on the area.
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Abby says
Some flights from Santiago to the south still get cancelled because of the ash, but Puyehue’s eruption has affected Argentina WAY more than Chile. Some Chileans (in a good humored rivalry-type way) find this hilarious. But I imagine if you live in Bariloche, you aren’t laughing. I imagine that it’s not good for one’s health to inhale ash all the time.
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The Travel Chica says
I heard someone say that the only place there is not an ash problem is Chile. Funny but not so funny if it has affected your livelihood and your health.
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Cal says
That is unreal.
I find it sad that whenever a natural disaster, catastrophe or huge even, etc, happens, we’re so quick to forget about it.
The media broadcasts it for a blink of an eye and then it’s gone. Like it never even happen.
Haiti, the Japan earthquake and tsunami, this, just to name a few off the top of my head.
We’re quick to forget (or ignore) the results that have to be dealt with by the unfortunate ones that live there.
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The Travel Chica says
Cal, so true. I am just as bad though. The only reason I think about this problem is because I have been reminded of it during my travels in Argentina.
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Jess says
Incredible to see that not much has changed. I was there for 2 months in august and september working on a photo story following the journey of the inhabitants of Villa La Angostura who woke up one day into a world that turned grey. I think its relevant that I share my project which was recently published in foto8.com, an English publication of international photojournalism. Here is my project. http://www.foto8.com/new/online/photo-stories/1509-garden-of-ashes Still in the works of getting in out there in more places, so its not forgotten….
The Travel Chica says
So glad you saw this and posted the link to your photo project.
I had heard that Villa La Angostura was much worse when I was in Bariloche, but I didn’t go there. Your photos really capture the devastation you saw there and the fact that people are still living in such terrible conditions.
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Andrea says
Wow – fantastic to see these photos. Though not good to see all that ash…does it cause any health problems?
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The Travel Chica says
Andrea, I am certain it does because I remember the news in Buenos Aires reporting that everyone was recommended to wear masks, and the water supply was compromised. I do not think the impacts are as severe now (water is drinkable, or so I was told), but I have to imagine there is still a health impact breathing in the ashes even though they are not as bad as when the volcano first erupted.
Other travelers with asthma said they couldn’t even go outside when the ash cloud was there. That cannot be a good sign.
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Annie says
Seeing your photos reminds how my mom described her days at Washington University when St Helen erupted. She said she was stuck for days in her dorm room/building because the ashes piled up and the doors were unable to open at all.
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The Travel Chica says
I remember seeing a movie about that when I was a kid. I am happy to have never experienced a natural disaster.
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Amanda says
Wow, I had no idea it was still so bad! I’m sure it would have indeed been quite shocking to see it in person.
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The Travel Chica says
Even being in Argentina for so long, I had no clue it was still like this. Shocking for sure!
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Curt says
Wow, that really would be very difficult to deal with on a regular basis.
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The Travel Chica says
I really cannot imagine. I enjoy the outdoors so much, and I do not think I could the poor air quality.
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All Colores says
So that’s how this volcano looks like! I kept hearing that the Chilean side was not damaged, and it’s indeed striking to see the vivid colors on the Chilean border.
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The Travel Chica says
It must have been horrible right after the initial eruption. Still hard to believe it is still like this.
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Cam says
Interesting – I had no idea it was such an issue. Can you imagine dealing with that everyday? Yikes, car wash businesses must love it!
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The Travel Chica says
I really cannot imagine it. I think I would have to move. Unfortunately, that is probably not an option for many people in the affected areas.
I think I would give up on keeping my car, home, or anything else ash-free at this point.
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Christy @ Technosyncratic says
That looks awful – I can only imagine what kind of respiratory problems it’s causing. =/
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The Travel Chica says
I remember the news showing people wearing masks right after it happened, but I am sure the air is still not good for people to be breathing.
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50+ and on the Run says
I had no idea this was still so bad–thanks for reminding us. Great pix, too.
cheryl says
Wow, I’d never even be able to imagine the effects. Although sad what’s happening, your photos are hauntingly beautiful.
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Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
A friend of mine in BA is a photojournalist, and she did a great project a few months ago in a town by the border that seemed to get hit the hardest by the ashes. The images she captured are really beautiful.
http://www.foto8.com/new/online/photo-stories/1509-garden-of-ashes
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Amanda @ amanda elsewhere says
“It was up to no good.” No good indeed. Where does one put moundfuls of ash? It’s not like you can burn it (again?) Is ash a fertilizer, or is that something I’m just making up from a long-time-ago history lesson? Thanks for showing us your perspective and the after-effects of this (unfortunately) forgotten about natural disaster. Keep your lungs safe!
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Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I have no idea what they can do about all of this ash. This area on the border is only for transit, but I do not know about what the towns affected by the ash are going to do.
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