The Travel Chica

Live Simple. Consume Less. Experience More.

Back in Latin America Again

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Although I was pleasantly surprised by Santiago and stayed longer than I planned, it’s time to move on to the next destination.

Valparaíso is a place I have been looking forward to experiencing.

I heard it has a funky vibe and amazing graffiti art.

True and true.

What surprised me the most was that I had that feeling of shock when you enter a foreign land.

The first thing I thought when I got off the bus in Valparaíso was…

I am back in Latin America again.

And it’s exciting!

You are probably thinking, “Stephanie, you have been in Latin America for over a year now.  What are you talking about?”

Well, since I left Buenos Aires and headed to Patagonia, it has not felt like Latin America.

The South of Argentina and Chile are different.

From the landscapes to the towns to the people, everything is different.  Even Santiago is totally different from any other large city I have visited in Latin America.

This may not come across the right way, but I do not know how else to describe it.  Those places are cleaner and nicer.  They have a more international feel because of both the history of the regions and the number of international travelers.

Valparaíso has a personality that will take much more than a week to figure out.

Valparaíso is gritty and dirty.

There are crumbling buildings next to beautiful, historical buildings.

Valparaíso is crowded and busy.

There are cars, buses, trolleys, and pedestrians on their way somewhere fast.  Yet you still might see a man on a horse riding down the street.

Valparaíso has a mess of electrical wires throughout the city.

Apparently, they do cause fires on occasion.

Yes, it is a bit dangerous.

You just have to be smart and know the areas to avoid.

I have come to appreciate a good tour guide, so I met up with Bobby from Valparaiso Walks to learn more about this interesting city.

Valparaíso Walks City Tour

Valparaíso was founded in the 1500s by Spain and remained a small fishing village until the early 1800s when Chile declared its independence and opened the port to international trade.  Valparaíso became a critical trade route stop because of the challenging journey around Cape Horn.  In addition, the city was a support-hub for the California Gold Rush.

Of course, the golden days of Valparaíso ended with the opening of the Panama Canal.  But the city has experienced a surge in tourism since being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.

The Hills

Bobby showed me some of the great buildings and street art on Cerro Alegre, the most-preserved (and touristy) of Valparaíso’s 45 hills.  My personal favorite is the story he told me about seeing The Amazing Race shoot a segment of the show here.  The contestants had to figure out clues and then race up the hill with supplies to paint these houses.

We continued our walk and got some great aerial views looking out over the water.

Street Artist

Next, Bobby took me to an area where a well-known street artist is sometimes painting.  Sure enough, he was there. I got lots of photos of him working, but I really like this one I captured of him sitting at the top of the stairs he painted before he knew I was there.

Ascensor Polanca

The grand finale was my first ride on one of the famous ascensores (aka funiculars or elevators).  There are only about 15 “working” ones left (it seems that quite a few are being repaired and not technically working).  But there is only one that is a true ascensor, meaning it is not a funicular which moves up the hill at an angle, but really is an elevator.

To get to Ascensor Polanca, you walk several meters into a tunnel dug out into the side of the hill.  The moment you step inside, the temperature drops considerably.

If you’re lucky, the chofer will let you drive.

See what I mean about Valparaiso having a personality?

I can already tell this will be another city that is difficult to leave.

Comments

  2. We never made it here =( It was so hot when we landed in Santiago, our first stop in SA that all we wanted was to flee to the beach after two days. I totally agree with you that Patagonia seems another continent to places like BsAs and Santiago!
    Andrea recently posted..Sidewalks and Canals of Amsterdam

  10. love the photo of the electrical wires, been taking photos wires in pattaya in the hope of putting a post together one day.

    More importantly, I think you are swaying off topic a little.
    What about the beer ?, or did I miss that.
    Bodlagz recently posted..Why Do Elephants Cry

    • Well, Valdivia is where all the good breweries are concentrated. My tour guide Bobby did turn me on to the one beer that is made in Valparaiso, and it was pretty good. He also told me where to get it on tap super cheap.

      Tour guides are valuable for much more than showing you around town and telling you about the history :-)
      Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Buenos Aires Take 4… And Big News!

  13. I totally understood what you meant. I don`t even think Buenos Aires is a very good representation of South America, maybe because of the lack of indigenous culture.

    I always wanted to go to Valpariso but ran out of time, one day…
    Ayngelina recently posted..Pigging out in Playa del Carmen

  16. The photo of the Ascensor Polanca looks like it could be part of thriller movie where you know that something’s bad gonna happen in there. But I’m glad you made it out safe to write this article! Great shots!

  20. I loved Valparaiso – such a fun city to explore. I actually found it quite hard to capture the place in photos, though (which is odd for such a beautiful and colourful place). You’ve done a great job with your shots!

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