Have you ever felt like you have discovered the best-kept secret in a city?
Have you ever had a dining experience that made you feel like a famous food critic?
I have. At El Baqueano.
I do not even remember where I read about El Baqueano during my guide book research, but I was surprised I managed to live in Buenos Aires for 6 months last year without hearing about this restaurant.
Before I arrived for my dinner reservation, I knew three things about this restaurant:
#1) The concept is to introduce people to the carnes autóctonos (native meats) of the country, NOT including the cow (think llama, seafood, and furry creatures you’ve never heard of before).
#2) Dishes are prepared in a haute-cuisine style in a 7-course tasting menu with optional wine pairings.
In addition to being a wine snob, I am now a food snob and only want to eat at restaurants with tasting menus.
#3) They have received praise from international chefs and food critics, yet still remains relatively low-key.
The Vibe
I had been in San Telmo all day doing research, and I was tired. As soon as I stepped inside El Baqueano, the threat of rain turned into a massive downpour with whipping wind and lightning.
Since Buenos Aires is a walking/ public transportation city, this meant that I had the entire restaurant to myself for the evening. I was dining alone, and there was no people-watching to distract or entertain. This could have made for a boring or awkward meal, but as soon as I met Gabriela, the sommelier/ dining room manager, and we started talking about the tasting menu, I realized that I was in for an exciting and unique gastronomical experience.
In a city full of white linen tablecloths, I appreciated the black and red, low-lit décor of El Baqueano.
It is intimate and elegant.
Because I had the place to myself, I had the opportunity to meet Chef Fernando and have a great conversation with him and Gabriela about the cuisine of Argentina. I learned that Australia is the only country that eats meats similar to the Argentines. We talked about making food an event and bringing gastronomy to Argentina. And I was happy to find that we shared the same opinions of some of the top restaurants in Buenos Aires.
Maybe I am on my way to becoming a foodie
Without further ado…
Tasting Menu
Usuzukuri of White Salmon
After the first few bites, I thought,
“Am I eating fish?”
This was so light and delicate with both a sweetness and subtle spiciness.
This dish was perfectly paired with Amalaya’s Vino Blanco, which is a vineyard I love and visited in Cafayate.
Carpaccio de Llama
This dish had so many quality ingredients: spicy mustard, espumas of cheese, olive oil, and of course the super-thin slices of llama meat.
Ensalada Tibia de Vizcacha
When confronted with a bizarre-looking salad with the meat of an animal I have never heard of, I thought,
“Okay, here we go. This is what I signed up for.”
Once the vizcaha was described to me, I am quite certain I saw one of these critters on my tour through Salar de Tara in the Atacama Desert of Chile.
It looks like a small rabbit.
And guess what.
It tastes like chicken but with more flavor.
This dish was paired with Crios Rosé de Malbec, which is now my favorite rosé. I am not even a big fan of rosés, but I would buy this to drink at home.
Sopa Asada de Langostinas de Puerto Madryn
I was confused when this dish first came out because this is what I was presented.
I was told to lift the steam-filled bowl and then pour in the soup.
A fun touch.
I like participating in the creation of my meal, as long as it only requires a small amount of effort 😉
Gyozas de Yacare
The theme was green.
The gyozas (thin-skinned dumpling) were green. The green puff you see is a bizcocho (like an airy biscuit) of wasabi. The neon-green is actually slices of ginger.
Yacare is a species of caiman (yep, crocodile) found in South America.
I loved the playfulness and flavor combinations of this dish.
Dessert Showdown
Two desserts?!! This is my kind of tasting menu.
I am a huge fan of chocolate. The Textura de Pera (textures of pear) combined a pear ice cream with a large chunk of the fruit in a pool of white chocolate and dark chocolate.
This was good, but the dessert that had me scooping every last drop from the plate was the Helado de Canela con Cayote, Queso Crema, Sopa Limon y Madera Comestible (cinnamon ice cream with cayote fruit, cheese, lemon soup and edible wood).
Yes, it sounds strange when translated, but trust me, it is one of the most perfect desserts I have ever had in my life.
My tasting notes say, “Love, Love, Love.”
Desserts were paired with a type of wine called Semillón, which is a white wine from a grape typical in Bordeaux, France, and apparently with a long history in Argentina as well. I continue to learn more about Argentine wine. For someone who does not like super-sweet wines, this was a great dessert wine with honey and apricots and a hint of herbs and citrus to balance the sweetness.
The Verdict
This post is over 1000 words of praise, so I will go ahead and wrap things up. At this point my gushing makes it obvious that El Baqueano is one of the best dining experiences I have had (and not just in BA). Because it is so unique, yet still specifically Argentine, I consider this to be a must-visit restaurant in Buenos Aires. The service is wonderful, and you can feel the passion and work that goes into each dish. El Baqueno is located in San Telmo at the corner of Bolivar and Chile.
Annie - FootTracker says
omg love the photos ~~ especially the soup and desserts. Any favorite part of the meal?
Annie – FootTracker recently posted..The Machine that Saved My Life @Japan
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
My two favorite dishes were the salad with vizcacha meat and the last dessert with the cinnamon ice cream. The wine pairings were also really memorable with this dinner.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Bolivia Scares the Sh** Out of Me
Emily in Chile says
I would love to go somewhere like this! Although having seen vizcachas, I don’t think I could eat one. They’re too cute.
Emily in Chile recently posted..A day in Santiago
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I would put it pretty high on your BA restaurants list. You can always check the menu before you go and make sure there are no vizcachas
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Bolivia Scares the Sh** Out of Me
Malena Edward says
¡Excelentes fotografías, interesante descripción de cada plato!
¡Un trabajo muy bien 10! Y lo dice alguien que no come carne.
¡Felicitada!
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
Wow! Muchas gracias, Malena! No supe que no comes carne.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Bolivia Scares the Sh** Out of Me
Audrey says
I wouldn’t normally think of eating llama, but these dishes look nothing short of delicious!
Audrey recently posted..A Date in Daejeon
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
There will be a post coming up soon about eating llama in Bolivia. It’s yummy!
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Bolivia Scares the Sh** Out of Me
Andi says
Wow what fabulous pics! Do you happen to know if this place had any veggie options? Would love to visit next week when I’m in BA.
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
Hmm…. I will send you their contact info so you can ask. I would imagine they could do veggie options, especially if they know in advance.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Ruth (Tanama Tales) says
What a place!! I think it can not me more perfect. I like to try new thing but never though there was something such as edible wood. Well, I guess in the gatronomic world the possibilities are bigger than what I thought.
Ruth (Tanama Tales) recently posted..Ostriches are not as friendly as you think
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I also wonder about the translation from Spanish to English for some items
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Laurence says
Wow, what a fabulous looking selection of dishes. And meats I’ve never tried before 😀
Laurence recently posted..In photos: from the Facebook Page (Edition i)
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I love finding a restaurant where I can try a whole bunch of new things in one sitting.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Angela says
Your pics are mouthwatering, would love to do such tasting!
Angela recently posted..Descending Su Gorroppu, Sardinia’s spectacular canyon
Ayngelina says
So ridiculously jealous Stephanie – how did I not know about this place?
Ayngelina recently posted..Where to eat in Lana’i
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I have no idea how this place has stayed relatively under the radar. I think they’ve been open for at least 3 years.
I guess it’s a place for true foodies and most people living in BA wouldn’t think to recommend it over the other obvious options.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Waegook Tom says
This sounds amaaazing – never heard of llama being served in a restaurant before! The pictures look amazing, too – the restaurant even makes crocodile look edible and omnomnomtastic!
Waegook Tom recently posted..More Batter, More!: A Guide to Korean Street Food
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I have learned that llama is really common in Bolivia although not prepared in such a gourmet way
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Jarmo says
Woah, that looks and sounds absolutely delicious! I love tasting menus, you get to try so many things
Jarmo recently posted..The “No Meat, No Liquor” Restaurant
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I so spoiled after my tasting menu spree in BA!
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Mark Wiens says
Stephanie, the entirety of this meal looks unbelievably good, some really unique and creative dishes. I’d especially love to try the vizcaha and the thin slices of llama!
Mark Wiens recently posted..No Posts Were Found!
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I was so happy to find this place and be able to share that creativity with everyone. If only I could share the tastiness in more than words
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Bret @ Green Global Travel says
That carpaccio looks divine! We do a lot of restaurant reviews for our freelance outlets here in Atlanta, so it’s always nice when we’re traveling to get an opportunity to do the same. Never tried Argentinean cuisine, but it looks amazing.
Bret @ Green Global Travel recently posted..DOMINICA- Day 1 Photo Gallery
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
After the guide book/ restaurant review experience in BA, I hope I have the opportunity to do more reviews like this in the future. Yum!
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Mountain Biking… For Real!
Abby says
Your food photos are so moody and gorgeous. I’m obsessed! (And for once, it’s not because I’m starving. I just came from a huge meal. I shouldn’t be enticed by food at ALL!)
Abby recently posted..Mangos and yachts in Panama
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
I’ve been getting lots of practice with food photography for this series
And I loved the fact that they had black tablecloths contrasting with the white plates, and there were even this great spotlight shining down on the table.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Foto of the Week from … Sucre: Holiday!
Laurel says
It looks delicious and I love the idea of eating native meats -although you are much braver than I am!
Laurel recently posted..Les Magnolies: What a 17 Course Meal Looks Like
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
When they make the food look this good, it’s much easier to be an adventurous eatER
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Foto of the Week from … Sucre: Holiday!