The Appalachian Trail was not something I thought about until I read Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail.

Bill Bryson is one of my favorite authors; his books are packed with interesting facts and are brilliantly funny.   I was actually in tears while reading the part of this book about bears.  My point is that Bill Bryson is the reason stories about the Appalachian Trail now catch my attention.

Don’t get me wrong.

 

I am not delusional enough to think that I could or would even want to hike the Appalachian Trail.

 

I am not a fan of shitting in the woods, and I really enjoy sleeping on a mattress.  However, the idea of spending a few days hiking on such an iconic part of American history is tolerable and even a bit exciting.

Hiking the AT in Pennsylvania

The chosen starting point was Caledonia State Park in Pennsylvania not far from the Maryland border.  The plan was to walk north for two days and then turn around and come back.  It was a difficult start, walking straight up the mountain ridge for the first several hours.

There was no easing into this hike.

I later discovered that groups use this part of the AT as a “shakedown” trip before setting out on longer excursions because it is challenging and gives you a taste of the terrain of the entire trail.

I was surprised by how well-maintained and well-marked the trail is.  I know I only saw a tiny portion of the trail, so it may not be like this the whole way (and I’m quite certain I will never find out).

This part of the trail is maintained by volunteers with the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC).

The shelters and camping areas are quite nice.  I even saw some of the volunteers working on the trail and checking in on the shelters.

 

While I still don’t love camping and prefer day hikes that don’t require carrying a heavy pack, this was one of those experiences I will keep with me because of the people I met on the trail.

Eccentric AT People

The first night I met Birchie and Mountain Rose.  Yes, those are the trail names of a local man and his mother.  Birchie explained that he owns land nearby and is responsible for maintaining Birch Run Shelter.  He takes his volunteer job seriously and comes down to the shelter at least once a week, more frequently during the through-hiker season.

Birchie is an interesting character and one of the friendliest and most helpful people I’ve ever met.  He directed us to his “secret” favorite camp site near the shelter.  He offered up extra hamburgers and beer.  I saw Birchie give a knee brace to an injured section-hiker, simply giving his name and address trusting that would mail it back once he got to a town to buy one.  During the through-hiker season, Birchie explained that he spends more time here, giving advice to the hikers and often driving them to town for supplies.

Despite Mountain Rose being in her 60s with a smoking habit and tendencies to fall down on the rocky Pennsylvania terrain, they still go hiking in the Pennsylvania mountains often.  The stories Mountain Rose and Birchie told show their pure love for the outdoors and specifically Pennsylvania and the AT.

I learned so much (and realized how little I know) about what it takes to hike the AT.  I asked the section hikers I met about the weight of their packs (they always start out with too much and get rid of stuff along the way).  I asked about how they plan where to sleep and where to buy supplies (some go high-tech with a smartphone and others laminate copies of trail info).  I asked if they carry bear spray (no).  It was fascinating.

Mountain Rose had her Kindle with her and suggested some books that give you an idea of what it is really like to hike the Appalachian Trail.  I will start with Barefoot Sisters Southbound, The (Adventures on the Appalachian Trail).  (Yes, they walked barefoot.  And when they finished, they turned around and walked back!)

I will probably never hike the whole Appalachian Trail.

 

And I am completely okay with that.

 

But I still have this strong desire to understand what the experience is like.  To understand what it takes.

The next day I found out from a PATC volunteer that Birchie is not officially associated with the AT volunteer group and allegedly is involved with drugs.  But I guarantee many people who have hiked the AT know Birchie and Mountain Rose and think they’re good people.

 

Have you experienced the Appalachian Trail?