I spent two weeks in La Antigua, Guatemala the second half of December 2010. Here are some travel tips on safety, places to see, things to do, and of course, food and drink. I’ve also included a list of other areas of Guatemala I did not visit but heard great things about from other travelers.
For more information about my experience in La Antigua, read my blog posts and check out my photos.
Safety & Health | Where to Stay | Traveling Cheap | Sites & Activities | Restaurants, Cafes, Bars | Food & Drink | Next Time
La Antigua
- You will most likely arrive through Guatemala City, which I was told is currently (as of 2010) the most dangerous capital city in Central America. Then again, I’ve been told that about San Salvador and Managua, so who really knows. I prefer not to take any chances, so I suggest transferring as quickly as possible. You can arrange for private transportation from the airport to Antigua in advance for about $30. Or you can take one of the shuttles that leave whenever they fill up for about $10 (and you can probably negotiate that price down).
- Antigua is pretty safe but just like any touristy city, you have to aware and careful with your belongings. Robbery is not common, but it is possible that someone may try to snatch your bag or your camera. Just take reasonable precautions. Be especially careful at night when it is more common for someone to try to run or drive by and snatch your bag.
- It is NOT safe to go hiking the volcanoes on the outskirts of Antigua on your own without a guide. Robberies are common. If you do this, I suggest not bringing a camera and only a small amount of cash. Hiring a guide is unfortunately necessary.
- I learned from other travelers that Antigua is a common destination for having dental work done. It is good quality and much cheaper than in the US. So if you don’t have dental insurance at home and are planning a trip to Guatemala, maybe plan for a teeth cleaning or other dental work you may need.
Where to Stay – Villa Esthela
- The rooftop terrace was a great place to relax and enjoy amazing views. Also, there’s a bar on the terrace that opens around 4pm. Be careful though because if the owner Juan is in the mood, you might be drinking a lot of tequila shots.
- A dorm was $6 a night. Dorm had lockers large enough to store all of my electronics/ valuables (bring your own lock).
- Rooms were nice. Facilities were very clean. Hot water showers (the trick is to only turn the knob a tiny bit).
- Best equipped kitchen I’ve had at a hostel.
- Owners Juan and Danielle are very friendly and helpful. They also run a transportation company, so ask them about private transportation to your next destination.
- Note: If you cannot get into Villa Esthela or if it’s important to have an included breakfast, I heard really good things about El Hostel.
- Buy fresh veggies and fruit at the market, but be aware that some vendors will try to charge you up to triple if you look like a foreigner. Before buying anything, ask two or three vendors for prices. Avocados should cost about 10Q ($1.25) for 3 or 4. Pineapples should cost 5Q (60 cents) – they tried to charge me 15Q once, and I laughed and told them I wasn’t stupid.
- There are actually two supermarkets to buy cooking supplies like milk, rice, meat, etc. The larger one is the one that hostels send everyone to, but there is another smaller market that I compare to the Aldi’s of the US. It is just around the corner from the main supermarket on the main street that leads to the market, and it is called Dispensa Familiar (logo will be “DF”). Go here first, and if you cannot find what you need, then go to the larger supermarket.
- Buy fresh, delicious bread at one of the many panderías. I could buy a baguette big enough for two servings for 2Q (25 cents)
- There are many places to buy freshly-made tortillas for preparing meals at your hostel. They’re cheap (4 for 1Q).
- There are many great hostels in Antigua that offer good value. Be picky. You can find a hostel that is nice, clean, and has hot water from $6 a night for a dorm. Some even include breakfast.
- This town is so walkable, I never paid to take a motor-taxi (although if you are a woman alone at night you should).
- You can explore a nearby town (e.g. Ciudad Vieja) by taking a chicken bus for about 3Q each way. These other towns will be cheaper for lunch too. The main chicken bus stop is next to the market. You cannot miss all of the buses lined up. There are other stops throughout the town; just ask your hostel for specifics depending on where you’re trying to go.
- Ruins at the Church of San Francisco – Best 5Q I spent. I wandered around for at least an hour fascinated by these larger-than-expected ruins and inspired to take many, many photos.
- Overnight Hike of Volcan Fuego – Up to this point, the most challenging and rewarding outdoor physical activity I had ever done. Amazing views (check out the pics). All cold-weather and camping gear provided by Outdoor Excursions. A machete-wielding securiyt guard and good lunch, dinner, and breakfast the next morning all included. Worth the $90. TIP: You will need to bring your own 55L+ backpack with 4 liters of water, toilet paper, sunscreen, snacks (I recommend nuts, Snickers, tortillas with a pack of refried beans, and applies or bananas), and a headlamp for the nighttime trek back down to the campsite. You will fill the pack with the cold-weather gear and part of the shared camping gear.d
- La Azotea Coffee Farm Tour – At first I thought 50Q ($6.75) was a little high to pay, but I really enjoyed this tour. Ask your hostel about the free van pickup the coffee farm provides from the Central Park about every 30-60 minutes.
- Valhalla Macadamia Nut Farm Tour – The tour is free. You just have to take a chicken bus about 20 minutes. It’s just past Ciudad Vieja. The bus drivers know the place, so you should be able to ask and figure out which bus will take you there. On the way back, you just wait on the main road and a bus to Antigua will pass at least every 20 minutes. And if you’re lucky, the eccentric owner from San Francisco who moved to Guatemala in the 70s after buying this farm will keep you entertained with his… um… *interesting* political views and corny, yet endearing, rehearsed jokes. TIP: Don’t eat breakfast before you go, so you have room to order the pancakes made with macadamia flour and topped with a heart-stopping serving of macadamia butter. It’s around $5 so not cheap (comparatively), but it’s worth it. Also, you can buy beauty products made with pure macadamia oil, so bring some extra cash if you’re interested in that.
- Learning Spanish – I did not actually attend Spanish school here, but I heard good things about La Union and The Spanish School of Antigua. They not only had quality, cheap lessons, they also offered students a lot of extra cultural activities in the afternoons free of charge. Antigua (and actually all of Guatemala) is a very popular place to learn Spanish and a place I considered starting my journey.
Favorite Cafes, Restaurants, and Bars – Note that I was saving money by cooking most meals and not going out to bars frequently, so I don’t have much listed here.
- Santa Clara Panadería – You will not see a name on the outside of the building, and it’s a really small place. It is on 2A Avenida Sur between 6a and 7a Calles (I may be one calle off). Great coffee (always served with a little something sweet and a smile for 7-8Q), great baguettes, great meat and cheese filled bread sandwiches (called Trenzas), and great dulce (sweet) treats such as cookies, cakes, and sweet breads. The cheapest and most delicious I found. Go early in the evenings as they often sell out of things.
- El Portal – Great place for a reasonably priced and good quality coffee. Located on the Central Park. I thought everything else on the menu was overpriced though.
- Cafe No Sé – Definitely a place for foreigners but a very cool atmosphere. The place reminded me of the set of Tales from the Crypt: small, very dark, only lit by candlelight with those giant candles that have creepy wax drippings, writing all over the walls. And my favorite part was the midget door you had to bend over to walk through to enter one of the adjoining rooms with another bar and small, cozy seating area. I love a bar that gives me a bowl of salty popcorn with my beer.
- Travel Menu – I did not eat here, but this place was recommended for lunch by a good source. Reasonably priced compared to the other restaurants if you order the set lunch. Located on 6a Calle.
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Moza Dark Beer – Finally! Good beer in Latin America! |
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Tostada with Stuff – I have no idea what the official name of this common snack is, but it’s delicious and cheap (4Q = 50 cents), and you can buy it from one of the women selling food around the parks and churches. There are other delicious snacks too like tortillas filled with cheese. |
Places I Wish I’d Seen – Guatemala is a country I plan to come back and explore in more depth. Here are some places I will definitely go next time….
- Quetzaltenango – A lot of people told me they went to “shell-ah” (English pronunciation), and I had no idea that this is Xela (Spanish spelling), the nickname the locals have given this city. It’s supposed to be a fantastic place to learn Spanish. It’s not too big and there are less tourists, so the town has maintained its natural feel. There are supposed to be amazing hikes in the surrounding countryside.
- Tikal – I don’t get into the Mayan ruins thing, so I opted out of a very long bus ride or very expensive plane ride from Antigua. But after I talked to a few people, I know I’ll go the next time I’m in Guatemala. I was told that the big difference is that you are basically hiking through the jungle between each of the ruins sites, almost always on the trail by yourself. Of course, there are tourists everywhere once you get to each site, but it’s the walk through the jungle that makes these ruins special. I also heard you can bribe the guards to let you in to take pictures of the sunset.
- Semuc Champey – When I saw these pictures from a traveler I met in Antigua, I was amazed by the turquoise and emerald colors of these natural pools just 11 km away from Lanquin.
