I had not heard many great things about Chile. I knew the natural wonders of Torres del Paine and the Atacama Desert would be amazing, but I had not heard many great things about the rest of the country. I heard the food is bad, everything is expensive, the people are not very friendly, they speak very fast and are difficult to understand.
However, I loved Chile. The food is fantastic. The people are wonderful. Some things are a bit more expensive than Argentina but not ridiculous. And that part about the people being difficult to understand… that’s true.
I traveled from the south to the north of Chile in January and February of 2012. My favorite city is Valdivia because it has so much to offer and is the beer capital of Chile (and maybe even South America). The funky, gritty Valparaiso lived up to my high expectations. The landscape photography highlight of my trip was the Salar de Tara in the Atacama Desert.
My tips for places to visit, accommodations, transportation, and eating and drinking are listed below.
Photography
If you are a picture person, check out my photo galleries from Chile.
Blog Posts
You will find some links to relevant blog posts throughout this page. If you would like to review all posts about Chile, click here.
General
Getting There
I traveled to Chile from El Calafate, Argentina. Unfortunately, there were no bus schedules that allowed me to get from El Chalten to El Calafate in time to catch the bus to Puerto Natales, Chile the same day. The trip was not very long, and the border crossing was not too difficult.
A note about border crossings…. Chile is insane about vegetables, fruits, chocolate, honey, products made from wood, and so many more things. Do not attempt to bring restricted items across the border because they really do check. They even scanned our luggage. The fine is huge if you get caught.
It is also common to cross by bus from Mendoza, Bariloche, Salta, and Jujuy.
There is no special visa required in advance nor a fee at the border. However, I believe you now have to pay a reciprocity fee if you fly in or out through the international airport.
Safety
I felt very safe in Chile. If you take the proper precautions with your things, there is not much to worry about. Valparaiso and Santiago are probably the two places where you should exercise the most caution, but even then violent crime is not common. It’s more about pickpockets or bag snatchers.
Traveling Cheap
- Be prepared for higher public transportation and lodging costs than in neighboring countries.
- To keep food costs down, look for colacion menus. These are the set lunch meal deals.
- Self-cater to keep food costs down. The fruit in Chile is excellent and cheap. Fish and other seafood is also cheap if you buy it in local markets.
Puerto Natales & Punta Arenas
I went to Puerto Natales because it is the base for trekking Torres del Paine. This did not work out so well for me because the park was on fire when I arrived.
You should absolutely 100% still go to this part of Patagonia. Even though a large section of Torres del Paine was burned, there is still much more beauty to see there. In addition, there are many more great things to see and do in this part of Chile.
I had no intention of going to Punta Arenas (you can see penguins there, but I already saw them in Puerto Madryn), but since I couldn’t see Torres del Paine, I joined some people from my hostel to do the Cabo Froward Trek. I do not recommend this unless you are a hardcore trekker/ outdoorsy person (and probably German). Check out this post about possibly dying in the wilderness. I realize some people love these types of challenges, so check out this post if you want to see the pretty side of the trek.
Overall, there is not much to see or do in either Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. You go there for the nature and wildlife excursions. Puerto Natales has a better vibe and is prettier in my opinion.
Where to Stay
My favorite hostel in all of my travels is Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales. It had partly to do with the situation, but it is also because the owner Bill (an Oregon transplant) is an awesome person and has created a great vibe in this cozy log-cabin-esque hostel.
In Punta Arenas, I spent a night before and after trekking at some random, weird hostel that I won’t even mention here. I wanted to stay at Hospedaje Magallanes, but they didn’t have room.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, Bars
In Puerto Natales, these are my faves.
- El Living – Great vegetarian options at decent prices. Supposedly have wifi, but I think they just steal it from next door, and it didn’t work when I was there.
- There is a French bakery off the main streets. Ask about how to find it at Erratic Rock. The chocolate mousse is to-die-for.
- Base Camp – This is a bar/ equipment rental shop and where they do the free daily Torres del Paine info session. Great vibe, good prices, and sometimes they have good, cheap food for dinner and live music.
Activities
- The only activity I did in this area was the Cabo Froward Trek from Punta Arenas . If you want to do it, talk to Bill at Erratic Rick or Sebastian at Hospedaje Magallanes. You absolutely should not do this alone and be sure you have good warm rainproof gear. There are river crossings, so you must get the tides schedule. Also, you need to know where and when to take the bus from Punta Arenas to the starting point of the hike.
- The same owners of Hospedaje Magallanes own Aonikenk Tourism Agency. They coordinate lots of activities around Punta Arenas.
Getting Out
I found that getting out of Puerto Natales is a little difficult. There seem to be only three options: take a bus to Argentina (El Calafate or Ushuaia), take a bus to Punta Arenas, or take the Navimag Ferry to Puerto Montt. I heard the Navimag Ferry is a beautiful trip, and I wish the timing had worked for me to take it (only leaves once a week).
From Punta Arenas, I flew to Puerto Montt. The main options are Sky Airlines and LAN Chile. I found Sky to be much more affordable. It is good to book flights in advance for better prices.
Puerto Varas (near Puerto Montt)
Everyone I talked to told me to go directly from Puerto Montt’s airport to Puerto Varas. Puerto Montt is nicknamed “Muerto Montt” (muerto = dead). Although I didn’t stay there, it certainly looked ugly and uneventful from the bus.
Puerto Varas, on the other hand, is pretty with a Germanic architecture style and small tourist town feel. You can see all there is to see in the town in one day, but the real reason to stay here is because it is a great base for day trips to surrounding hikes, volcanoes, and small Patagonian towns. I was recovering from the trek to Cabo Froward, so I did not do any day trips (and was envious of those who did).
Getting There
If you fly into Puerto Montt, there is a bus that goes between the airport and the Puerto Montt bus station (1900 pesos). It leaves every 20 minutes. From there, you take a mini-bus (they leave frequently) to Puerto Varas (800 pesos). There is not space for luggage, but there was no problem with me tossing my mochilla in the front area with the driver. Tip: Ask the bus driver to tell you when you are in the center of town. I did not and ended up having to walk 1km or so back to town.
Where to Stay
I stayed at Hostel Ellenhaus for 6500 pesos a night. It is basic but at least has wifi, lockers, kitchen, a central location, and a good breakfast. They also offer (expensive) laundry service.
Chiloé
Chiloé is a beautiful, tranquil, and strange little island. I had not planned to go there, but a fellow traveler convinced me, and I am glad I went. There are two main cities Ancud and Castro and some other rural spots to check out. I suggest at least a week to hit the main attractions of the whole island.
Note that it rains A LOT in Chiloé, so expect it and be prepared to not let it ruin your exploring.
Getting There
From Puerto Varas, I took a Cruz del Sur bus, and the bus took a ferry to the island and the first main city of Ancud (4300 pesos).
Where to Stay
Because I was in recovery mode, I wanted to stay in one place. I chose Ancud because it is a small fishing village and that sounded pleasant and low-key. It was.
- Hostel 13 Lunas is one of the best hostels I have ever stayed at. The dorms are spacious with well-constructed bunk beds, large lockers, comfortable common areas, a great kitchen, and a proper breakfast. Bonus: It is across the street from the bus station and within walking distance of anything else you’d want to see in Ancud.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, Bars
- La Botica de Cafe – A great coffee shop with REAL coffee and some of the best pisco sours I had in Chile.
- Sacho – Located at the Mercado Municipal, this is THE place to try the local dish curanto (pictured above). It is big enough to share. The place fills with local workers at lunchtime, so you know it’s good.
Favorite Activities
- There is not much to see or do in Ancud, but it is a pleasant place to wander around and see the traditional chilote architecture. There is some good graffiti art. Check out the statues of mythological figures in the main park/ plaza. Wander through the Mercado Municipal. You can walk to the ruins of an old fort, which are not that impressive, but there is not much else to do.
- Day Trip to Castro – Cruz del Sur bus is 2000 pesos each way. Castro is the complete opposite of Ancud. It is much busier and more developed. Views along the water are prettier here, and you can see the famous palafitos. There is an outdoor crafts market, and you will also find fish vendors selling cheap, tasty ceviche. If you are looking for REAL coffee, go to Marian’s Cafe Aleman.
Next Time…
- I contacted the company too late to do this, but I will definitely spend at least one night at the Chepu Eco Lodge and do the dawn kayaking.
- National Park
Valdivia
I love beer, and when I discovered that Kuntsmann and several other beers are brewed in Valdivia, I knew I had to go. I am so happy I did because Valdivia is much more than breweries. It is a medium-size city located on a river with a large student population that makes the city modern and artsy. Beautiful beaches and outdoorsy activities are a short bus ride away. Valdivia is my favorite city in Chile.
It seems that January and February are the best months to visit because there are tons of festivals going on.
Getting There
I took a Cruz del Sur bus from Chiloe for 7500 pesos.
Where to Stay
I loved, loved, loved Hostel Airesbuenos. In addition to being clean and comfortable, they serve a healthy breakfast with REAL organic coffee, and the owner Viela, a San Francisco transplant, is great. She’ll give you recommendations on restaurants, bars, and cool things to see and do. I stayed there for 6000 pesos a night (discounted because I stayed for over a week). This hostel is within walking distance of the bus station and the center of town.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, Bars
- La Estrella is one of the restaurants in the Mercado Municipal. This was the best salmon I have ever had, and the whole meal including a mini-bottle of wine cost less than US$11.
- La Ultima Frontera – This restaurant/ bar has a cool indie vibe, a great craft beer selection, and delicious ginormous sandwiches.
- Cafe Las Gringas – Great beer selection.
Favorite Activities
- Shopping at the Mercado Fluvial – The fish market rocks! Every day you can buy fresh fruit, veggies, and fish at great prices. You can get some good photos of the fishermen feeding the sea lions, but they will expect you to pay them.
- Summer Festivals – Valdivia knows how to enjoy the summer. I went to 4 festivals while I was there, and most of them are annual.
The Niebla Feria de Costumbristas is a great place to try local dishes such as pastel de choclo and chupe de jaiba. It happens most of January and February. - Isla Mancera – This car-free island is nice to explore for a few hours and has some pretty, deserted beaches. You can take a bus to Niebla and then a ferry from there. It’s about a 20 minutes bus ride and then a 10 minute ferry.
- Curiñaco – There is a nature reserve here, however, it was closed when I went. (Don’t go on a Monday.) I still enjoyed exploring the gorgeous, nearly-deserted beaches (pictured above). This is about a 50 minute bus ride, and this is a fairly remote area. Be sure to confirm the bus schedule because they do not run frequently.
- Just across the bridge from the fish market is Isla Teja where you will find a great contemporary art museum and the Jardin Botanico, which makes for a pleasant stroll.
- Explore the Beer – The beer in Valdivia is great! Kuntsmann is a touristy spot, but I think they make the best beer in Valdivia, and they have a great sampler. Just down the road is Salzburg where you can sample the 2 or 3 they have on tap and purchase other bottles. For adventurers, go to Calle Calle, a microbrewery on the other side of town that is not as well-known. Cafe Las Gringas and La Ultima Frontera are great places to try other craft beers.
Santiago
Santiago is much more modern and clean than I expected. I was told this is partly due to earthquake damage but also because there is not much appreciation for historical architecture. No, it does not have the grandeur or number of cultural activities as Buenos Aires, but there are a few spots to occupy your time.
Getting There & Around
I took a bus from Valdivia to Santiago for 2500 pesos. There are a couple of different terminals, so figure out which one you are going to in advance. I believe there is subway access within a few blocks of the terminals.
The subway is quite cheap (640 pesos) and gets you to most places you would want to go, although it doesn’t run very late. The bus system is a little tricky to figure out, and you have to have a card (no coins/ cash accepted). Some hostels let you rent them. This is also a pleasant city for walking.
Where to Stay
Hostal Forestal – I picked this hostel based on location in the exclusive Lastarria neighborhood and within walking distance of the trendy Bellavista. The hostel is large with good dorms and comfortable common areas. Breakfast is lame, and they serve instant coffee, but I had been spoiled by my other hostels in Chile.
I also did Couchsurfing for a week, and it was a great experience.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, and Bars
I did not eat many meals out, since I was CouchSurfing most of the time. Plus, Santiago is more expensive and has a lot more trendy restaurants and bars. But here are a few tips.
- Skip lunch at touristy Mercado Central and go to La Vega Chica, the cheap market nearby.
- Blue Jar is one of those trendy restaurant/ cafes, but it is well worth a splurge.
- If you want good coffee, find a Starbucks. Chile is not big on coffee, so it’s your best option in Santiago.
- Patio Bellavista is a popular (and touristy and expensive) place for starting a night out. Had some great pisco sours at a bar there but too expensive to stay for more than one.
Favorite Activities
- Cementerio General – There is an impressive cemetery reachable by the subway.
- Parque Metropolitano – Right in the middle of the city (and within walking distance of Bellavista) is this great park set up on a large hill. You can go hiking or cycling. There is also a huge pool at the top that offers great views of the city. It is expensive but worth it on a nice day.
- If you have access to a car, go hiking at Yerba Loca, a short drive from the center of the city.
- Santa Lucia Hill – Right in the middle of the city, this is an easy climb and gives you great views.
- GAM – This is a really cool arts center. Go to the exhibitions, and see if they have any interesting plays or musical performances going on.
- Running – When I stayed in Lastarria, I was able to run in the system of parks there. When I CouchSurfed in Las Condes, Parque Araucano was nearby.
Valparaiso
Valparaiso is my second favorite city in Chile. I had high expectations from what I heard from other travelers, and it did not disappoint. Valparaiso is gritty, crowded, and busy, but you accept all of that because of its charming cobblestone streets winding up into the hills, its energetic artsy student population, and the vibrant street art.
I took so many photos here.
A lot of people talk up nearby Vina del Mar. I took the bus over and was disappointed with this characterless place. The beaches aren’t that great, and they are jam-packed with people during January and February. The highlight of my few hours there was finding a Starbucks because I was dying for a decent coffee. It’s worth a day trip if you have the time to see for yourself, or if you are dying for some beach time.
Getting There
From Santiago, just go to the bus station (be careful to go to the right one, your hotel/ hostel can tell you), and buses seem to leave every 15 minutes or so. My ticket was 4000 pesos.
Where to Stay
Continuing my hostel luck in Chile, I discovered Casabella on a tip from a friend for 7000 pesos per night. Although it is a bit away from the main tourist areas, the quality, hospitality, kitchen, reliable wifi, and breakfast made up for the walking. It is within walking distance of the bus station.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, Bars
- Besame Mucho – I was so disappointed that I discovered a place with REAL coffee for a reasonable price on my last day in Valpo. But at least YOU can benefit from my discovery.
- Mastadonte – This restaurant may win the award for cheesiest restaurant decor, and it is also the place to go for super-cheap mugs of the locally-brewered Del Puerto beer. Don’t eat the food here though!
- DO NOT eat at Cinzano. Extremely overpriced, mediocre, small portions.
Favorite Activities
- Cooking Classes Chile – This is the best cooking class I have ever been to because of how awesome the food was and how awesome our host Boris was. I had so much fun.
- Valparaiso Walks Walking Tour – This walking tour is a good way to get oriented and see some of the main sites and learn about the history of the city.
- Explore the Graffiti Art – The best way to see this is to just walk around. On the walking tour above, you will see pieces, but there is so much more to discover just by wandering around.
- Cemetery – There are a couple of cemeteries. I checked out one and got some good photos.
- Museo Cultural de Ex-Carcel – When I visited, this former prison had just been turned into a cultural center. They had some interesting contemporary art on display, and it seemed that they were on the path to hosting other cultural activities here.
- Day Trip to Casablanca Valley – This is one of the wine regions. It is possible to take a bus to the center of town, however, you need a car to actually get to any of the vineyards. Note: This is halfway between Santiago and Valparaiso.
- Running – It is possible to go running along the water, however, it’s a bit sketchy because you are somewhat isolated, and there are not many places to cross the train tracks. I went running early in the morning when there were not many people and carried pepper spray with me. For solo females, I suggest going later when more people are out. I rain from near my hostel to the edge of Vina del Mar and back.
- There art and music festivals in Valparaiso in the summer. I was there on an off-week, but check around to see what’s going on.
San Pedro de Atacama
I was really looking forward to seeing the Atacama Desert, however, it was flooded when I arrived and most attractions were closed. Luckily, I did get to see one really cool part of the desert. However, most of my time was spent in the not-so-pleasant tiny, over-priced town of San Pedro de Atacama. My suggestion is to get there, immediately book the tours you want to do, and get out.
Getting There
From Valparaiso, I took a bus to Calama (52,000 pesos) and then I hopped on another bus for the 1-2 hour trip to San Pedro de Atacama. I did this because the only buses that go direct to San Pedro de Atacama from Valparaiso arrive at 10pm, and I don’t like arriving anywhere in the middle of the night. Unfortunately, I do not remember which company I took. It was one of the companies with an office on the outside of the terminal.
Where to Stay
I have no clue because I did CouchSurfing (no, there are not many options for this either). I have a feeling hostels are pretty crappy here.
Favorite Restaurants, Cafes, Bars
There are no cheap places to eat in this town. Prices are so inflated because the town seems to exist only for tourism. On the bright side, the food options are actually a lot better than expected for a small desert town.
- Rincon de Mati – Good lunch special, including a small salad bar.
- Sol – Excellent salads and fresh juices.
- Casa de Te – One of the few places you can get good coffee and an early breakfast.
Favorite Activities
- The only one I can tell you about is the Salar de Tara (pictured above). This is not one of the standard tours, but it was absolutely incredible. I did this tour through Cosmo Andino Expediciones, however, this is not one of their normal offerings. If they won’t coordinate it for you, I’m sure they can put you in touch with the right people. For 4 people, it was 60,000 pesos each, including lunch. Note: You climb to a high altitude very quickly, so be sure to drink lots of water.
